June 30, 2012

West Yellowstone to Madison Campground

14 miles. Shortest day yet.

We didn't leave town until after 6, and pulled into the first campsite available. The ride in was incredibly flat, I loved it!

First impressions of Yellowstone: beautiful, but too many rv's and tourists.

We're now riding with poppa McKinley, aka Bill. He's done lots of Backpacking in his day, so I'm sure we'll talk trail over the next few weeks.

Oh, and we are in Wyoming now, yessss!

Tired. Bed.

June 29, 2012

West Yellowstone

Rest day.

We took a day off to wait for McKinley's dad to arrive, he's flying in from TN to ride with her for 2 weeks.

A friend I met through the AT lives not too far from here and happened to be camping in the park, so we spent the day hanging out. Liz, aka Dizzy Bat, and I met for 5 minutes at trail days in 09, and then connected over Facebook. It's amazing how fast bonds form when traveling. She brought snacks and insisted on paying for our lunch, how generous! Also, she's now one of the funniest people I know. Basically, the 3 of us laughed all day.

I can't think of a better way to spend a day off.

Tomorrow, poppa McKinley should arrive in town and we can set off into the park and Wyoming.

June 28, 2012

Ennis to West Yellowstone

70 miles. Friends to perk us up.

Oh, headwinds, will you ever. go. away?

We rode in a light, manageable headwind until about 1, and then the wrath hit us again. I thought McKinley was going to have a break down, so I prepared myself to keep my sanity; only one break down at a time. We take turns having rough moments, and since, for some reason I wasn't losing my shit, I decided I'd pull us all day if I had to. So I stayed up front and she rode my draft for a while.

We took a break and McKinley found a cell phone in a public bathroom. So she called the person labeled "dad" in the call log to say she found the lost phone. I told her that for doing a good deed, the wind would stop.

A few more miles down the road, we  pulled over in campground/lodge to regroup, and luckily, Pete and Lauren came rolling in a few minutes later. Hooray! Mentally, we were saved! They were exactly the company we needed. Everyone is feeling just as defeated and frustrated from fighting these brutal winds with little reward, so we laughed and commiserated.

After a dose of ice cream, we all left together and laughed all the way to town. Oh, and the winds changed direction and gave us a little push. McKinley's good act, indeed, came with reward.

Montana sure is beautiful, but finally the landscape closed in on us and became even more magical. It changed from a dusty, expansive land of woody, brushy plants, to enormous, old growth forests along the Madison River. Trees! Trees to block the wind! I sure hope this is foreshadowing of Wyoming. I didn't realize that the unchanging landscape had become monotonous until we were treated to something new.

We finally pulled into town at 10 pm, exhausted and starving. I was the last person to receive my meal, and the first to finish. I ate a large pulled chicken sandwich, baked beans, potato salad, 2 pickles, and drank a beer. And then we had large brownie sundaes at DQ.

This was the best end to what started as a shitty day. If we didn't run into Pete and Lauren, we probably wouldn't have made it to town. Cheers to happy endings.


June 26, 2012

Twin Bridges to Ennis

55 miles. We cheated.

Technically we are about 55 miles from where we started, but we only biked about 15 of them.

Of course, all things "unseasonable" are happening in Montana while we're here, the wind being one of them. Then there's 90+ degree heat, and mosquitoes like I've never experienced. And I thought they were bad in 09.

The winds are unreal. If it was this windy at home, it would be considered a tornado. It blew at a steady and constant 50 mph in our faces, and we could barely stay upright to clock a 6 mph pace on FLAT GROUND. Twice we had to stop pedaling because it was just too strong; we would have either blown backwards or over on our sides. Drafting helped, but we had to switch every other mile.

After stopping at a historic location in search of a bathroom, the grounds keeper said there was nothing. So we hung our heads and moved on. Twenty minutes later, he showed up in his suv and asked if we wanted a ride up the road. It was an obvious answer; we were exhausted from battling wind all day and only making it 15 miles. And basically we've been in a head wind since leaving Oregon. I don't feel guilty, we needed a break from fighting so ridiculously hard.

At lunch, McKinley and I both discussed the prospects of  spontaneous break-downs. We both decided that separately, we would eventually fall apart from battling head winds for 2 weeks. We're now both prepared to deal with each others flood of tears. Mentally, it is challenging to push through and barely make any miles.

Tonight we are in a rv park, and unless the wind stops, we have to sleep under the stars. It would be nearly impossible to pitch tents. Seriously, I wish I could convey how insane the wind is. The locals all say it only blows like this if a storm is coming, and it has felt like a hurricane for 2 days now.

Despite all of these obstacles, I love this trip, and I love bike touring. I just wish the wind would let up, or become a tail wind.

Jackson to Twin Bridges

78 miles. With a 5 hour siesta.

McKinley and I followed Ed's lead and left camp a little after 6 to beat the head winds. The locals say the winds pick up around 10; well they picked up a little after 7. We had such a horrendous cross wind that we had to push our bikes the last mile up the first pass. It took everything to stay on 2 wheels, but it was just too difficult to ride 3 mph with probably a 50+ mph wind. Frustrated is an understatement. However, it was a beautiful, sunny and cool morning.

We had a second breakfast on top of the pass; mine was a Twix bar and spicy Doritos at 8:30 am. My mom would be proud.

The rest of the way to Dillon was mostly downhill, but the winds slowed us down and whipped us all over the road. I've never experienced such intense winds as a constant, it's crazy! We've been in all cross and head winds for 2 weeks now.

Montana is just beautiful, I can understand why It's called Big Sky Country; skies for endless miles. The landscape is so open and free, and there's free range animals everywhere.

Early this morning, we passed free range cows; we stopped to listen to them moo. Have you ever heard 500 cows chatting up a storm? What have they got to say so early in the morning? Some sounded distressed, and some sound like dogs, It's the weirdest thing. I've also never seen a cow run until this trip, who knew they could be so limber!

We took a 5 hour siesta from the sun and wind. It was so much needed after fighting for 50 miles! I love afternoon siestas, they make the rest of the day a bit easier. Especially when a very large dessert is included after a nap.

Luckily, a tail wind pushed us the last 28 miles to town. Wahoo, finally, tail winds! We rode hard and made the 28 miles in just over an hour.

There's another TransAm cyclist here, Max, from London. He's headed west and then riding down the coast. Max just graduated college and is exploring before taking on the real world, something everyone should do before finding a job.

Ok, we're shooting for another early morning so we can siesta in the afternoon. Siestas are amazing! Good night, Montana.

June 24, 2012

Wisdom to Jackson

20 miles. Head wind: an evil bastard.

We are miserable.

Today was super flat with a few gradual uphills, and we still moved at a snails pace. My ass is falling apart, and we didn't want to fight the head winds over 2 consecutive passes, so a lazy day was in order. I'm lucky to have a kick ass riding partner, where neither of us feel any rush to move along.

We met up with Ed, another TransAm cyclist. He was with a group but decided to stay in Jackson, too. So we have another friend tonight!

It's a billion degrees, and that's no exaggeration. I think I will melt. And I can't stop eating.

I love cycling cross country, and I love riding my bike every day, but some days can really suck. The hard times make the good times that much sweeter.

That is all.

Darby to Wisdom

65 miles. There are enemies, and there are frenemies. The sun was an enemy today.

Even with a million sun block applications today, my skin burned like hell; I cursed the sun all day. Hopefully it doesn't cause me to wrinkle before my time, I've never spent this kind of time, day after day, in the hot, hot sun. And Wtf, Montana is far away enough from the equator that it shouldn't be 90 degrees!

We stopped for lunch in Sula and only made it maybe another 7 miles before we went looking for cold water. We turned towards a camp ground, never found it, and ended up on a gravel road that partly paralleled the road we turned off from. We were hot, tired, and slightly grouchy.

A beautiful log home popped out from the thicket of trees. I knocked on the door a few times, to no avail. Sigh. After pacing around and deciding what to do, I heard a man say, "Can I help you?" We were saved! He and his wife and 2 pre teen boys came down to greet us and bring ice water. Before long, we were sitting on their cushy leather couch eating gigantic bowls of vanilla ice cream. It was absolutely what we needed to cool down. They were intrigued with our trip and asked an assortment of questions. If they had offered us to sleep in their brand new, several million dollar home, I would have graciously accepted. Also, and more importantly, they contributed to my 1 of the usual 2 ice cream consumptions per day. The second ice cream came after dinner in the form of a brownie sunday. I've had a brownie sunday just about daily.

After battling severe heat, head winds and cross winds, exhaustion won and we called it a day in Wisdom. McKinley and I stumbled into a bar, guzzled a beer, and chowed down like wild beasts. We ran into Lauren and Pete, cyclists we met at the ACA in Missoula, so we all shared a dinner table. It was great to chat with them again, they are hilarious and play well off of each other.

We're pulling for a century tomorrow, including 2 passes, so let's hope the heat and sun are not ridiculous.

June 22, 2012

Missoula to Darby

80ish miles. Mustache party!

I have to say, we didn't start really riding until almost 2 and still rode a long day. Today was mostly flat with an all day tail wind. Win!

During lunch at Subway, a west bound cyclist with more energy than I could handle gave McKinley and I tips on upcoming camping and places to go. Much appreciated, but my tired brain was stalling in first gear while he talked at a pace faster than we bike.

Up the road, we had second lunches in Corvallis, MT. After a few days of rest, the appetite is raging again.

We stopped in at a casino for ice water. The girl behind the counter asked about our trip and nearly fell over when we said we're biking to VA. Her response was, "Fucking Jesus of Nazareth!" Best reaction ever.

Well, the stick on mustaches are out, it's time to slap one on and party. And by party, I mean, finish my tuna and crackers and go to bed.

June 21, 2012

Missoula, round 2

Another rest day.

Not much to write about, other than having a hair dying party. McKinley is a bad influence! I'm sitting with blue dye in my hair. I bleached a strip across the front of my head and died it blue, and the rest of my head will have a blue tint. Looks like my mom will have to do damage control at the end of summer before I go back to work.

McKinley's hair was already purple in the front, so she just touched it up. She was peer pressured by her 13 year old sister to die it before leaving home. So, basically I blame this on a teenager. Ha!

Back to work tomorrow!


Missoula

Rest day. I love spread night!

We putzed around town to do the usual, including dropping off bikes for a tune up and a good cleanup. Mine needed a new chain, and the bearings in my front hub were tightened. I know, exciting stuff. By the way, my bike has undergone an identity crisis and sexual reassignment surgery. He is now called Beast of Burden!

Every Wednesday during the summer in Missoula, there's a music festival under the bridge. I ate Indian and Thai food, yum! The live band was a great addition to the day.

We swung by the ACA to say adios to Arlen and take a photo with him, what a guy! He's the one person I met so far who has enjoyed Kansas, so I'm happy to hear a positive review.

Spread night made me so happy. We bought a crusty loaf of French bread, kalamata olives, goat cheese, an avocado, artichokes and red wine. Fanciest meal in a while. And we polished it off with brownies from Arlen and Shawn. Followed by a night out at Tamrack Brewery and a few cold ones.

Next big milestone coming up: Yellowstone.






June 19, 2012

Lolo to Missoula

13 miles. I love Missoula.

I don't even know how to describe today, it was simply amazing.

We entered Missoula and immediately went to the Adventure Cycling Association, aka the cycling mecca of awesomeness that makes the maps for this route, among many others. The route I'm on was originally called the Bike Centennial route, first ridden in '76. That was the time of riding in cutoff denim shorts and long tube socks, lycra was unheard of.

We got a tour of the building and then had our black and white photos taken by Greg Siple, the founder of the ACA. Can we say star struck! He took our freaking photos, I met Greg Siple! And he also weighed our bikes; mine rang in at 78 lbs (bike plus gear) and McKinley's was 88 lbs. Dang, our bikes need a diet.

Then we met Arlen Hall, the director of tours. Another celebrity sighting; I've read a few articles on him. I smiled and told Arlen I knew who he was, I may have blushed. I also recognized so many faces from all of my blog stalking, it was awesome! McKinley was also star struck.

We chatted with Arlen outside as we were getting ready to leave. He invited us to stay with him and his lady friend, Shawn, since we didn't yet have a place to stay. Did that seriously happen?! So I'm sleeping in Arlen Hall's house. Double awesome. He's ridden around 60,000 miles on his bicycle(s) over the years and has a million travel stories. He's also ridden through NJ a few times and we were able to share stories on common places we've visited in the south.

Today has been incredible. I've met people that I have read so much about, and in my eyes, are celebrities. Getting to the ACA was something that felt out of reach, and I (we) biked 1,000 miles to get there. That is kick ass.

June 18, 2012

Random campground to Lolo

Day 21. 90 miles. Montana, wahoo!

Idaho was hot, hilly, and full of head winds. The roads were sucky. Though it was absolutely beautiful, I'm happy to leave it behind. Hello, Montana!

We planned on a century today (100 miles) but fell a bit short; we ran out of daylight.

Today included Lolo Pass, which is a gradual 45ish mile climb, followed by 5 steep miles to the top. It soaked up a lot of the day, but it wasn't too bad overall. We battled cold, wind and rain all day, all things that slowed us down a bit.

Towards the end of the day, I was exhausted, so McKinley hopped in front of me so I could ride her draft. We were doing a cool 20 mph. I got too close, bumped into her pannier and bit it hard. I tore my rain pants, leggings, gloves, a small hole in my pannier, and a few spots on my rain jacket. My knee is scraped up, but that was my only injury, thankfully. If it wasn't so cold and rainy, I wouldn't have been full of layers and protected from the pavement. Small miracles! I'm so glad we will be taking the next few days off in Missoula, my ass is ready to be out of the saddle.

Yay Montana, yay rest days, yay for an awesome ride partner!


White Bird to Lowell

Day 18. 80 miles. Riding for free food and beer.

We made it to the motorcycle party after riding 80 miles and up a steep-ass 10 mile climb. Everyone warned us how awful White Bird Hill would be, but we still kicked ass to make it here. And why its called a hill, I have no idea, its more like a mountain. I started to feel like we would never make it, but we rolled in at 9 to hear, "Hey, the girls are here!" Apparently everyone at this party was expecting us, so I felt like a celebrity.

We stopped in the town of White Bird for breakfast. The only option was a cowboy breakfast with the folks from last nights rodeo, so I sucked it up and ate the sausage gravy-smothered biscuits and pretended it wasn't sausage. I have to say, it was awesome, but I filled my sausage quota for a few years now. I had sausage burps all the way up the "hill." The people of White Bird, however, are some of the friendliest I've met so far; very welcoming and generally interested in our ride.

Idaho is absolutely beautiful, but I hope to never pedal down 95 again. It's loud, full of traffic and semi's. The old route 95 was a welcome break from traffic and we rode 2 abreast the whole way up to chat. Once we were on 12, someone passed us in the other direction, honked and gave us the finger for no reason at all. And that is when I wished him the most painful, gut-wrenching case of diarrhea while on a first date with a girl he likes. I don't know why cyclists are not liked in certain places, we bother nobody.

After a gigantic lunch in a cafe that included 2 desserts, we finished the 50 miles and my legs protested every little uphill roller. Around the 70 mile mark, I needed to distract myself from the discomfort of being in the saddle for so many hours. We played picnic and talked about other verbal memory type games to pass time. If I didn't have a ride partner right now, I think I would have went insane.

McKinley and I both discussed the prospects of veggie burgers at the picnic, and realized that being in a very carnivorous part of the US, we'd have to suck it up and eat burgers. And eat burgers is what we did, 2 greasy cheese burgers each, layered with gobs of mayo and ketchup. And a mound of macaroni and potato salad. And corn on the cob. When I picked up my plate, it felt like 2 lbs of food. I ate like I've never eaten before, I was starving.

What a day. I don't soon feel like riding 80 miles with lots of climbing involved, but the pain was worth the reward. Now if I can only shower some time soon...

Lowell to random campground

Day 20. 25 miles. Tired legs.

I woke up to chatter around 5 and finally fell back to sleep until a little after 6, when a Harley engine was crankin. I stayed in my sleeping bag for a while, taking my time to wake up. Hunger won, and I sprang up and proceeded to eat 5 pancakes and hash browns. Five freakin pancakes, and I could have kept eating, but I didn't want to eat all of their food. So I settled for more coffee, oj, and a huge watermelon slice. The motorcycle dudes can sure party and eat well, my belly was happy the whole time.

In addition to breakfast today, I ate 2 apples, a banana, cookies, chips, a few snickers bars, crackers, cheese crackers, a payday, twix, and soup. My diet out here sucks! McKinley and I are already planning on putting together something healthy and delicious in Missoula.

We took our time leaving so we could chat with a few of the guys. They absolutely loved us; it turns out that after 25 years of this party, we were the only bicyclists ever invited. And we're welcome back in the future. They even gave us t shirts. One of the guys said that when we rolled in last night, everyone was happy and there was laughter all around, and food started flying (meaning, we started shoveling it in like wild hogs). Truly a great group of people.

In usual fashion, we took too many breaks and napped in a parking lot for entirely way too long. I think we were so wiped out from yesterday, then being up late and up early. Neither of us had energy, so we took a short day and will make tomorrow extra long. The head winds also sucked at my energy. Idaho is beautiful, but we've been fighting head winds and hills. I won't soon miss biking through this state.

Montana tomorrow!

June 16, 2012

New Meadows to White Bird

Day 17 (I think). 60 miles. Head winds and siestas.

We battled an all day head wind, and it was probably blowing at 20 mph early in the morning. McKinley and I took turns all day drafting, so it was only half as bad. I don't think I could have made it this far without serious team work. And it's a damn good thing we both ride at the exact same pace. Drafting is awesome, it conserves so much energy.

We decided that siestas are our best bet for not riding in the heat and direct sun, so we stopped in Pollock at a lodge for 4.5 hours. That was the best decision ever! Lunch and naps made everything better, and we avoided the hot Idaho sun. Genius!

Tonight we found a rodeo, and when in Rome. We were definitely out of place; everyone in their cowboy and cowgirl outfits stared us down as we rolled in wearing bike shorts. If there was a record player, it would have made the scratch sound. I overhead a few young cowboys say, "look at the girls with bikes, niiice." They liked our booties, apparently.

We're camped right in front of a pen of cows, and they won't stop mooing and snorting. I hope it ends soon, I'm exhausted. Long day tomorrow over a steep 8% grade. Everyone says how much White Bird pass will suck, but hopefully we can do it fast. Fingers crossed for a tail wind!

June 14, 2012

Oxbow to New Meadows (2 days combined)

Day 16. 48 miles. Idaho is one hilly bitch.

2 days in summary (the exhaustion is setting in):

Idaho! We stopped yesterday to take photos of our potato peelers with the "Welcome to Idaho" sign. They're actually a brush/peeler combo, but we bought them to use the brush to clean our cassettes. Genius!

Yesterday, McKinley and I took a shorter day to get a few things done at the bike shop this am, which is in a frame shop; odd combo but it works.

We landed in the small town of Cambridge and camped in the town park for free, awesome. The park had plenty of lush green grass to tent on, and a picnic shelter where we hung our hand-washed laundry to dry. After a very tough day of insane hills, we decided many beers were on the menu, so we hit the only bar in town and mingled with locals. Baldy Bob and Cambridge Bob from a motorcycle club became our new buddies; they fed us homemade biscuits and jam and paid for our beers. By the way, that was the best strawberry jam I've ever had! They found our trip to be so kick-ass that they invited us to a big motorcycle party on Saturday, so we're aiming to eat lots of food and drink beer for free. Locals are amazing, if given the chance. Side note: this is a family picnic, so it'll be safe.

Today we got late start due to bike maintenance stuff. After more biscuits and jam, we had another breakfast at the diner and finally headed out to pedal up more Idaho hills; crap they're steep! As we headed down 95, we heard a motorcycle and McKinley said, "ha, imagine that's Bob and Bob," and sure enough it was Baldy Bob, making sure we would attend the party on Saturday. How amazing!

The sun sucks, it sure can be evil. After a million breaks and riding until 8:30 pm, we decided that getting an early start, taking a siesta and riding on late in the day is more productive. With barely any canopy overhead, it's just been too hot to function. Hard to believe we were in snow a few days ago.

My quads are starting to get bulky, and my tan continues to look more ridiculous every day. I'm burning to a crisp!

Ok, bed time. I can hardly think, it's well after midnight.

Baker City to Oxbow

Day 14. 70.5 miles. Wowzers!

This has been one very long day with nearly 10 hours in the saddle...breaks included. For the first time on this trip, I'm so very exhausted. I'm ready to call it a day.

McKinley and I both ate a double breakfast. I had 3 large pancakes, 2 eggs, 2 pieces of toast, hash browns, and coffee. Mmm, it was delicious, and I needed all the carbs for the long day.

We left with Kim but since McKinley and I wanted to stop at the Oregon trail interpretive center, we didn't really see Kim until the end of the day. She ended up riding with Frank, Roger and another guy who's name I can't recall (exhausted).

I like riding with McKinley; we've got the same pace and like to take long breaks, so we make great ride partners. Our lunch break turned into another tube-changing session; this is her third flat in 2 days. She finally found the piece of wire causing the problem, success! Productivity at its finest.

We stopped in Richland for a second lunch; it was probably the most un adult lunch I've ever had: a whole big bag of salt and pepper potato chips, a snickers bar, a Pepsi and an ice cream sandwich. I think I covered all the important food groups.

After the steep 5 mile ascent, we both wanted to punch things. It was long and hot, and my skin continued to fry, despite a million sun block applications. My cycling tan, however, is coming along very nicely. It's actually ridiculous looking, I love it.

Despite the very long, exhausting day, I rode strong all day, up to the last minute. We hammered the downhills and flats, and even the last few rollers we conquered easily. I'm so proud that I rode 70 very strong miles today. I feel awesome...and tired. Good night, Oregon. Tonight is our last night together.

June 11, 2012

Baker City

Day 15. Zero miles. More milk shake stomach aches.

I think I'm learning that I shouldn't drink milk shakes, my stomach hates that much dairy in it.

Did the usual town stuff, food shopped, and sorted through gear. Nothing too interesting. Oh, we ran into Leslie again, she's been taking busses up the TransAm to rest her knee and keep up with her ride partner.

That's all, tomorrow will be a good long day with beautious weather.

June 10, 2012

Sumpter to Baker City

Day 14. 28 miles. Short and sweet.

Today we had a super tail wind and flew into Baker City in no time. Kim, McKinley and I took turns drafting as we pushed hard with the wind; it was so great to ride as a team, I loved the group effort.

We stopped a few times along the gorgeous Powder River to take in the beauty all around us. Today's backdrop was my absolute favorite, by far.

I need to stop eating myself into a miserable oblivion. After a large lunch and a beer, McKinley and I got milk shakes and rested in the park for a while. Well, as usual, my stomach revolted against dairy. We both laid there in pain, laughing at our stupidity.

After dinner, obviously we needed dessert; chocolate cake and vanilla ice cream was the winner. Bad news, but oh so delicious. I just keep telling myself I need the calories.

McKinley and I are staying with WS hosts Mitch and Kathi, and Kim is staying in a motel. We will meet up in the morning for breakfast and town errands on our day off.

I'm loving being with women since we can all relate. Life is good on the road through America.

June 9, 2012

Prairie City to Sumpter

Day 13. 45 miles. 3 consecutive passes is exhausting.

It rained, sleeted and snowed on me today; when I wasn't sweating, I was freezing. There was no happy medium.

I met a few new ladies finally, and first female's I've seen out here. There's McKinley, a young gal from Nashville, and Kim, a lawyer from Texas. I found a road id bracelet at the John Day Fossil Beds and as it turns out, Kim was THE Kim it belonged to. Hooray! She was very happy it turned back up. And I'm happy to have some female company.

Well, I had to say adios to Ross and Bob; they were awesome travel buddies and took me in like a little sister. So I was sad when our routes split ways, but that is the nature of long distance traveling. People ebb and flow. I sure hope our paths cross again some day, they are just wonderfully generous dudes.
After crossing Dixie Pass in the wind and snow, I was ready to call it a day. The cold stole so much of my energy, but I still had 2 more passes after I left the guys; I needed to at least get to Sumpter.

The next 2 passes were not too bad, but I did count the miles until I reached the top. I was thrilled to fly down the third because I was just ready to be done biking for the day.

As I turned down the road towards town, I turned into a nasty head wind that took everythikg in me to push out the last 3 miles. I was in wind all day; I fought to stay upright in cross winds on exposed descents. Yes, I white-knuckled the hell out of my handle bars!

Today, I fell for the first time ever on my bike, and of course a girl was watching through a store window. As I slowed down in the gravel parking lot, I unclipped my left foot and in cartoon slow mo, I toppled over on my right side. The people in the store were all smiling at me when I walked in. Ha!

Looking forward to tomorrow's adventures with new friends. First thing I want to do when I get to Baker City: drink a beer. Priorities.

June 8, 2012

Dayville to Prairie City

Day 12. 45 miles. Fried fish for lunch = stomach ache all day.

I crossed the 500 mile mark today, how great is that! And I just found 5 dollars, today has been a good day.

Another lovely day in paradise. The weather was beautiful with blue skies and cotton ball clouds. And we had a saweeeet tail wind for most of the day, making for fast miles.

As I rode through the valley and stared up at 7,000 foot snow-capped mountains, I couldn't help but smile. What a backdrop to ride through: grassy green meadows with cows and horses, and gigantic mountains dwarfing the landscape.

Instead of camping on the pass, we're in town; there's snow in the forecast tonight at those elevations, and I'd prefer a warm room over waking up in snow. I hope the weather clears up by the time we have to climb the first pass of the day.

Tomorrow, I lose my new touring buddies. Ross and Bob are going to take the Lewis and Clark to the Northern Tier across the US to the Atlantic. We may cross paths again in Missoula, but they're taking time off to visit their ladies before hand. I've had a blast hanging with Cheech and Chong and will miss their company. I hope to catch up to some folks that are just ahead of me now.

The next few days will be long ones, and soon I'll be eating potatoes in Idaho!

By the way, riding a bike from sea to shining sea is freakin awesome.

June 7, 2012

Mitchell to Dayville

Day 11. 43 miles. No rain, no Maine...er, Virginia.

The appetite is growing, I ate 2 breakfasts today. First breakfast was a big chocolate muffin and coffee, and second breakfast was 2 large ice cream pancakes and 2 eggs with a hot chocolate. Yes, I said ice cream pancakes. Instead of using milk in the batter, they use vanilla ice cream. Yum! That's good biker food.

We battled rain and pockets of  headwinds allllll day. I thought the rain would make me a miserable sob, but it was very bearable, surprisingly. Not that I particularly liked biking in the rain, but I tolerated it very well.

Ross, Bob and I took a 2 mile detour to see the John Day Fossil Beds. On the way up to the visitor center, we were sandwiched between a few thousand feet of striped rock and sandstone-looking walls. The formations were unreal. Our country sure is magical; at times, I felt like I was on another planet.

We watched a 20 minute video about the fossil beds, and my head bobbed for most of it; apparently I was totally wiped out and in need of a nap. I still have no idea who John Day was. 

Dayville is another miniature town with a population of just over 100. There's 2 camping options, a general store/gas station that also makes doughy pizza, and a post office. I am loving these neat little towns with one-stop shops. 

I spoke to Kelly tonight, and she's rather pissed I never gave her a shout out. So, here's your 30 seconds of fame (you asked for it, muah ha ha):

For picture day in the third grade, Kelly's mom wanted her to wear an itchy wool sweater. Kelly has sensitive skin that revolts against wool, but Joyce insisted she wear the sweater. After Kelly protested, Joyce dumped some baby powder down the itch-inducer, put a nice slap mark across her face, and made her go outside to "cool off"; the slap mark is visible in her school photo. This will always be my favorite picture of Kelly, because the story makes me giggle like a third grader.

Sorry Kel :)


June 6, 2012

Prineville to Mitchell

Day 10. 49 miles. Today was like riding on Mother Natures bosom, as quoted by Ross.

I am riding with a few Wisconsinites, Ross and Bob; they are a hilarious duo and I'm loving their company. I think they also love mine, because they've dubbed me Little Miss Sunshine, since today was their very first day of sunshine. I brought them good weather, and the rest of my cookies from the Mennenites. Also, Ross has dubbed me P-Funk.

I don't even know how to describe todays awesomeness, it was simply amazing. Blue skies, the easiest pass known to man, high desert and buttes, and gorgeous landscape for miles and miles. I couldn't have asked for a better day, and I had great company to share all of this joy with. Chewing tangerine gum and blowing bubbles coming into town also made me happy. It's the little things.

We climbed Ochoco Pass, and cruised downhill for 11 fast miles. Well dontcha know another bee nearly had me. At 30 mph, all I saw was a flash of yellow and black, and BAM, he smashed right into my top lip. I came away unscathed this time; I can't imagine how a bee sting to the face would feel. But now I'm gun shy about fast descents.

We arrived in Mitchell and met more TransAm cyclists, hooray! Leslie is a second year student at Berkley and traveling with a guy who I did not meet. There's also a few others staying in town.

I had a very long conversation with a local who works for ODOT about gardening; he's obsessed with his creation. Did you know there's such thing as Walla Walla onions and Sweet Texas onions? Me neither. I long for a garden after seeing his excitement to raise an array of vegetables. We also discussed rattle snakes; he kills them for fun, and also to keep others safe. Post conversation, he drove home, grabbed the rattles from a timber rattler and diamondback (from his jarred collection) and dropped them in my hand. This is how I will always remember Mitchell, Oregon. I wish I asked him his name.

What a fantastic day. Looking forward to another sweet-ass day in the saddle!

June 5, 2012

Sisters to Prineville

Day 9. 35 miles. Ohh, distractions.

I pushed 24 mph on flat ground, holy awesome tail wind! And for the first time on this trip, I used the large chain ring and pedaled hard.

I'm now in eastern Oregon's high desert; it's barren and dry with buttes aplenty. The landscape has changed from sandy beaches to fir trees, and juniper to tumbleweed. My favorite so far: old growth forests of firs and pines; it reminds me so much of Maine and the wilderness.

The plan was to ride to a campground 8 miles east of here, but once I rolled into town, saw a brewery and then a motel a block later (and threatening skies), my mind was easily made up: beer and a bed! That just means I need to add on those 8 miles tomorrow to keep me on target for another scheduled WS stay.

Tomorrow is Ochoco Pass, hooray for another zippy downhill! I hope I still have a strong tailwind to push me up the pass.

Fingers crossed!

Update: my hopes of microbrews have been crushed. And there's now TransAm cyclists to hang with!


June 4, 2012

Sisters - rest day

Day 8. 0 miles. Rain rain go away.

I woke up to el crappo weather, and Karen and Steve were gracious enough to offer a second night. I needed no convincing, I was exhausted and didn't want to ride in the rain.

We spent most of the day in Bend. I picked up a Goal Zero solar charger on the cheap; can't wait for sunshine to use it! I Texted Wags letting her know I'd be in Bend (her old stomping grounds) and she recommended McMinamins for beer and food; what a damn good choice. Ruby beer and a hemp burger, and blueberry lemon cobbler. Ahh calories. I'll need those over the next few days with 3 consecutive passes into Baker City.

I'm pooped from this rest day, I need to lay down.

June 3, 2012

McKenzie Bridge to Sisters

Day 7. 55 miles. Feel the burn.

Last night, I slept in a spare room at the campground. It was cozy and warm, and I was thankful for such kind caretakers, Christa and Dave.

Today, I sustained my first injury of the trip: a bee sting to the right shin. As I flew down McKenzie Pass, I felt a shooting pain and thought a rock kicked up. Nope, apparently I flew into a bee at 30 mph, pissed him off, and he stung the crap out of me. I was going too fast to take a hand off the handle bars to swat him away, and I refused to lose my awesome downhill speed, so I sucked it up and let him sting me until he finished gouging his stinger in my leg. I think it was a yellow jacket.

McKenzie Pass gifted me a 22 mile uphill climb; it wasn't hard, but it felt like it would never end. Around mile 17 I got a little frustrated. It took me 4 hours with breaks to reach the top. I passed 5,000 year old lava fields, and saw the 3 Sisters under tons of snow. The view from the top was just incredible, snow caps galore. The wind whipped, so I didn't stay too long.

The descent was 15 downhill miles, and it led right into Sisters. I met 8 cyclists out for the day on top of the pass, and we rode the last several miles into town together. They invited me to join them for a beer, and I loved finally having some company. Hooray, friends! Most are Oregonians, and Art is from just outside Philly, so we bonded over how awful bagels are outside that region. He biked the TransAm a decade ago, so he was able to offer some advice and mark some hot spots on my map to visit.

Also, I crossed the PCT, so now I can say I set foot on it.

Tonight I'm with WS hosts, Karen, who is an accountant for Altrec, and Steve, who is an insurance adjuster. Wonderful, wonderful people who ride a tandem recumbent and do some local touring as well. Their dog, Zeke, is also a great host, he gives lots of love in the form of licks. Oh, I miss my dog.

It's so beyond my bed time, good night, Sisters.

June 2, 2012

Coburg to McKenzie Bridge

Day 6. 54 miles. Tearing it up.

I'm now in the Cascade Mountain region!

Today I felt so strong and made great timing, even with lots of rest breaks.

I packed up a soaking wet tent, which always sucks. The sky only spit on me for 20 minutes, and the rest of the day shuffled back and forth between overcast and sunny. My skin finally had a break from the sun, so my sunburn is now turning to a tan.

Animals I've encountered so far: horses, cows, sheep, goats, buffalo, steer, llamas, turkeys, turkey vultures, chickens, roosters, snakes, dogs, cats, and an array of birds. I've also noticed lots of dead red and black butterflies.

The road kill encounters: a few deer, 2 skunks, racoons, birds, 2 snakes, and a ton of unidentifiable animals.

Fact: dead skunk spray can still be smelled nearly a quarter mile later.

Tomorrow is McKenzie Pass - 25 miles of climbing, followed by 20ish miles of a downhill coast. Yahoo! That will be a sweet payoff.

Keep your fingers crossed I make it up without chucking my bike off the mountain.

And one last very important thing: map #1 is complete!

June 1, 2012

Corvallis to Coburg

Day 5. 38 miles. Sunny skies, until it just started pouring. It's your fault, Rocket

Today started with an awesome breakfast of a homemade berry smoothie, eggs benedict with organic eggs and coffee. Jeff and Bettina are wonderfully generous hosts!

Jeff rode with me to the edge of town, mainly because it was just too confusing. We parted ways and I thanked him for the hospitality.

Today was flat, sunny, and had a light head wind. It was just enough to let  me know who's boss. I rode Peoria Road for probably 15 miles, and passed by a tree that had a few dozen shoes hanging from the branches. Just like you would see on telephone wires. But, this tree was in the middle of nowhere, odd.

I've been enjoying this trip so much, but today I was in need of a friend. I don't know why, but I just felt blah and uninspired. Maybe it was because I'm badly sun burned and my allergies are raging. If I wasn't sniffling, then snot was dripping all over me. I did, however, FINALLY master a snot rocket. It only took me long enough. I really should wash my booger-infested gloves.

I also mastered the art of eating a bag of doritos while riding. It took me 2 miles to eat the whole bag. I chose cool ranch, an original gangster flavor and an old favorite.

One of the coolest things I've seen: a skate park and basketball court built under a bridge next to the bike path in Corvallis. Awesome use of space.

I hope to make some buddies soon. Once schools let out, more cyclists should be out here.

Here's to another flat day tomorrow, and then a 25 mile ascent up Mackenzie Pass on Sunday!